hunting dog
By the HuntEmUp Outdoors team | Guest article for EpicDogLife
Opening day gets all the attention, but the weeks after it are where a hunting dog is really tested. Long days, cold water, rough cover, and short nights add up. A dog that starts the season fit can be worn down by the middle if nobody pays attention. Here is how to keep your dog conditioned, fed, and recovered from the first hunt to the last.
Keep conditioning between hunts
Hunting once or twice a week is not enough to maintain a dog’s fitness. If your dog spends the week in a kennel and then runs hard all Saturday, expect soreness, slower recovery, and a higher chance of injury. Aim for short, regular sessions on the off days:
- Brisk walks or roadwork on a lead to maintain endurance.
- Swimming, which builds fitness with less impact on the joints.
- A few short retrieves or quartering drills to keep skills sharp without wearing the dog out.
Keep the day after a hard hunt light. Easy movement usually helps a stiff dog more than another hard outing. If your dog is limping, reluctant to jump into the truck or sore to the touch, give it more time and check with your veterinarian.
Protect the feet
Feet end a lot of seasons early. Cut pads, torn nails, and burrs between the toes are common in rocky ground, frozen fields, and cut crops. Check the feet after every hunt, keep nails trimmed so they don’t catch and tear, and if you use dog boots on rough terrain, get your dog used to them at home first.
Feed for the work
A working dog in season burns far more energy than the same dog lying around in July, and many dogs lose weight as the season goes on. Check body condition weekly: you should be able to feel the ribs easily without seeing them sharply.
- Don’t feed a big meal right before a hunt. Hard exercise on a full stomach is linked to bloat (gastric dilatation-volvulus) in deep-chested breeds, a life-threatening emergency. Feed a smaller meal well ahead of time, or the night before.
- Feed the main meal after the dog has cooled down and settled, not the moment you get back to the truck.
- On long days, small snacks can help keep energy up.
- If you increase portions or switch to a performance formula, do it gradually over several days to avoid an upset stomach.
How much extra food your dog needs depends on its breed, age, and workload, so your veterinarian is the best person to help you set the amount.
Hydrate in every kind of weather
Dogs can get dehydrated on cold days as easily as warm ones. They pant hard, work hard, and often won’t stop to drink unless you offer. Carry fresh water and offer small amounts throughout the day. Don’t rely on puddles or ditches: stagnant water can carry bacteria and harmful algae, and dogs that drink salt water on the coast can get sick.
Watch for heat early, cold late
Early teal, dove and upland hunts can be warm. Signs of heat stress include frantic panting, thick saliva, very red gums, stumbling, and a dog that lies down and won’t get up. If you see them, stop hunting, move the dog to shade, wet it with cool (not ice-cold) water, and get to a veterinarian. Keen dogs often won’t slow down on their own, so it’s on you to call it.
Later in the season, the risk flips. A retriever making repeated retrieves in cold water, then sitting in the wind, loses heat fast. A neoprene vest helps hold in warmth, and a raised, dry spot between retrieves helps too. After the hunt, towel the dog off and let it warm up out of the wind. Shivering that won’t stop, weakness, or confusion are signs to get help.
Do a full check after every hunt
Five minutes at the tailgate catches most problems while they are still small:
- Eyes: redness, squinting or discharge can mean seeds or debris.
- Ears: head shaking or scratching can point to a grass awn.
- Feet and legs: cuts, pad damage, swelling and burrs.
- Coat and skin: ticks, barbed-wire cuts, and punctures.
Grass awns (foxtails) deserve extra attention because they can work their way into ears, noses, paws, and under the skin. If you can’t remove one easily, or your dog keeps sneezing, shaking its head, or licking one spot, see your vet.
Carry a first aid kit
Most hunting spots are a long way from a clinic. A well-stocked hunting dog first aid kit lets you clean and wrap a cut, pull a tick and get the dog home safely. At a minimum, carry wound wash, gauze, self-adhesive bandage wrap, tweezers or a tick remover, styptic powder for torn nails, a towel, and the numbers for your vet and the nearest emergency clinic. Learn how to use everything in the kit before you need it.
Build in rest
Watch for signs your dog is wearing down: slow to get up in the morning, less drive, weight loss, or small injuries that won’t heal. Older dogs especially may need more rest between hunts. A day off mid-season beats losing your dog for the rest of it.
Keep your dog moving between hunts, feed for the work, keep it hydrated and check it over every time. Do that, and your dog will finish the season as strong as it started.
This article is general information and does not replace advice from your veterinarian.
HuntEmUp Outdoors is an Illinois-based retailer of sporting dog training equipment and hunting gear, serving hunters and their dogs since 2004.
Practical tips on conditioning between hunts, feeding, hydration, heat and cold, post-hunt checks and first aid.
